We Cannot Look Away, Vol. 19, Issue 55

Etiquetteer is supposed to be a column about manners, about behavior, about how we use etiquette to get along in the world and make it a pleasant place to be. It’s comfortable to confine that discussion to weddings and tea parties and clothing and stationery, but that’s only the frosting on the etiquette cake. Last night Americans witnessed one of the greatest assaults on political courtesy ever broadcast, the first 2020 presidential debate. As deeply uncomfortable as it is, we cannot look away from it.

President Trump’s behavior is neither the behavior of a gentleman nor a leader. His contempt for his opponent, the moderator, the previously agreed rules of debate — indeed, his contempt for anyone or anything on that stage not himself — degraded America and any concept of American greatness. It makes Etiquetteer’s earlier writing on campaign etiquette appear downright quaint. There’s no need for Etiquetteer to say much; just watch the footage.

President Trump behaved like a bullying schoolyard gangster. His call for the P***d B**s to “stand back and stand by” made him look like he should be wearing a double-breasted pinstripe suit with exaggerated shoulder pads, tossing a roll of nickels in the air and saying “I’ve got some boys in the back who can make you say anything.” Ask yourself if you think that’s decent behavior. If you voted for him before, or plan to in 2020, ask yourself how well that behavior reflects on you. Accepting his behavior and supporting Trump with your vote indicates your comfort with anyone behaving that way. You will no longer have any grounds to criticize anyone else believably.

The motto of the United States, E Pluribus Unum, means “Out of many, one.” One nation, not one personality. We need to move on from every discussion being about One Big Personality and to return it to being about All Of Us. And we can’t even start to do that until One Big Personality is out of office. The words of Rose Sayer in The African Queen have never been truer: “Nature, Mr. Allnut, is what we are put on this earth to rise above.” The candidate who is not rising above is President Trump. He needs to be voted out of office. We need to vote him out. We cannot look away any longer.

National Scarf Day, Vol 19, Issue 54

Now in its third year, National Scarf Day is observed every September 27 “to recognize the power of the scarf.” Because on the internet, anything can be a holiday. So, let’s consider the scarf and how it is worn with Perfect Propriety.

Quite possibly the most powerful status indicator for a lady before 5 PM* is the Hermès scarf. Its value and quality is immediately apparent, and as Paul Fussell pointed out in his essential book Class, scarves “. . . instantly betoken class, because they are useless except as a caste mark.” There must be dozens of ways to tie a scarf around one’s neck. Etiquetteer has Dear Mother’s copy of Judith Keith’s of-its-era I Haven’t a Thing to Wear, which is full of ideas. The most luxurious is a long scarf draped loosely and anchored by a pin on one shoulder, but a long knotted scarf will bring you right back to the mid-1980s.

And then there’s the trend of tying it onto a handbag, which was started by Babe Paley en route to lunch at La Grenouille. She felt it was too warm to keep around her neck, but couldn’t figure out what to do with it. Onto the strap of her handbag it went, and an upper-crust vogue was born.

Edith Sitwell as Herself.

Edith Sitwell as Herself.

At the other end of the spectrum is the scarf used as headgear. Eccentrics like Dame Edith Sitwell and Little Edie Beale distinguished themselves by making their headgear an essential, iconic part of their appearance. It would have been unthinkable to see Dame Edith without something exuberant sprouting from her head, more often hats but memorably scarves and turbans. And Little Edie concealed even her ears with the stern application of a scarf around her head, anchoring it with bold costume jewelry. Ali McGraw, and then Valerie Harper’s iconic character Rhoda Morgenstern, did a lot to make the headscarf look more comfortable and accessible.

Ali McGraw knew how to work a scarf.

Ali McGraw knew how to work a scarf.

Ladies, if you feel like trying something a little different that’s still Perfectly Proper, why not attempt a mid-century style turban?

Etiquetteer is just a wee bit more skeptical about the success rate of these suggestions for scarves as dresses and beachwear.

Gentlemen, as usual, have less room to maneuver with a scarf than ladies. The Art of Manliness blog has a comprehensive guide to how a gentleman wears a scarf with Perfect Propriety (and also which scarves are for gentlemen and which are not). In the last few years Etiquetteer has become quite fond of the Parisian knot, which is quite easy and ought to be more widely used.

Since the 19th-century cravat fell out of style, scarves for men have fallen in and out of fashion. In the 1930s one often saw cotton bandanas or scarves knotted casually (but not too loosely) around the neck with sports clothes, and it’s become sort of a stereotype to see a pleated silk cravat worn with a velvet or silk smoking jacket. With evening clothes, however, the only Perfectly Proper choice for a gentleman is a white silk or silk-satin scarf, with or without fringe, and with or without an initial or monogram in black or gray only. It should not be necessary to specify that this is not in lieu of a bow tie . . . but it is.

Etiquetteer will admit to remaining fond of the trend started five years ago of the blanket scarf for men, but one has to be careful it doesn’t appear to be a shawl. Only someone with the creative force of Frank Lloyd Wright could get away with that!

With the colder seasons almost upon us, Etiquetteer hopes you enjoy ferreting out some favorite or forgotten scarves and facing the Fall with Perfect Propriety.

Etiquetteer sports a Parisian scarf knot for fall.

Etiquetteer sports a Parisian scarf knot for fall.

*After 5 PM is traditionally when it’s Most Perfectly Proper to start wearing one’s large jewels.