Heavily identified with the American South, iced tea has passionate adherents almost everywhere, and equally passionate detractors. The latter may condescend over their piping hot lapsang souchong if that makes them feel better (as long as they keep their pinkies in), but for those of us who enjoy a good glass now and then, a refresher on the Perfect Propriety of iced tea is in order.
First, Etiquetteer absolutely denies outright the existence of instant iced tea. There is no such thing. When you’re eating out, confirm when ordering that fresh-brewed iced tea is offered. If not, order something else.
Iced tea is served in tall slender glasses (tall water goblets will do in a pinch) with an iced tea spoon, which is essentially a long-handled teaspoon. “Iced tea spoons are a regular item in place settings sold in the southern part of the United States, replacing cream soup spoons in the place setting,” according to Richard Osterberg in Sterling Silver Flatware for Dining Elegance (1999). Dear Grandmother’s silver includes iced tea spoons instead of any soup spoons at all, which sometimes leads Etiquetteer to throw up his hands and invoke Mrs. Honeychurch: “I cannot help the drawing-room furniture; your father bought it and we must put up with it.”* When setting the table, an iced tea spoon would take the place of soup spoon to the right of the knives.
Everyone has their own preferred method for making iced tea; if you know what works for you, carry on. Alice Foote MacDougall, the early 20th-century restaurateur, wrote how to make good iced tea in her first book, Coffee and Waffles, and to her “the ‘Don’ts’ are of almost primary importance.” Some of them are:
“Don’t make iced tea of English Breakfast tea.” (Etiquetteer rather daringly uses Constant Comment, which makes a rich-tasting beverage.)
“Don’t make it at 7 AM for use at 7 PM.”
“Don’t think that one slice of lemon floating on the surface will be anything but an irritation to your guest.”
Mrs. MacDougall also wrote “Don’t forget that the Chinese use no sugar at all — and they know tea.” She clearly didn’t know the American South, where sweet tea is more than nectar for some; it’s a lifestyle. Recipes vary, but essentially it’s adding one cup sugar to four cups freshly brewed hot tea and then chilling until it’s time to serve. It’s very sweet (which is the point), so it’s not for everyone. Restaurants will ask if you want “sweet or unsweet tea.” Order wisely.
Mrs. MacDougall’s recipe for iced tea “as it should be” includes some sensible instructions: not starting to make it until half an hour before serving, cutting off the tea bag labels (“You want tea, not printer’s ink”), fresh cold water for the kettle, and plenty of ice for the pitcher. “This tea must be made strong, as the melted ice reduces the strength. Water must not be added to weaken it.” But she also adds the juice of three lemons and one orange (!), which . . . well, that is just not how we did it Down Home.
Cream is not served with iced tea as it is with iced coffee. Sugar** or lemon are your choices. Some people go mad for garnishes: mint leaves, slices of various citrus, and Mrs. MacDougall even suggests pineapple. Etiquetteer suggests simplicity. But the one thing that’s exactly the same as hot tea is how iced tea is stirred. Move your long-handled iced tea spoon back and forth to diffuse the sugar throughout, not in a circular motion.
Etiquetteer wishes you as many cool, refreshing glasses of luscious iced tea as you wish, and like-minded companions with whom to enjoy them.
*A Room With a View, by E.M. Forster.
**Bring your own artificial sweetener.