When last we spoke, I had just spent a full day in Málaga; that was, unbelievably, two weeks ago. Since then, I’ve been to Granada, returned to Barcelona, and spent one wonderful week aboard the Queen Elizabeth cruising the western Mediterranean with Carl. I’ll get back to that, but first let me recap the last two days in Barcelona.
1) We woke early — not unusual on a travel day, and debarkation is always active — and I had a glimpse of our maneuvers into port before I settled at the desk to write my pages. Our luggage had been collected the night before, and we had both responsibly laid out our clothes for the day before going to bed.
Our last dawn from the Queen Elizabeth.
2) Carl has become a true Cunard Convert, and especially of dining room breakfast. We were seated at a window table in the stern (as often before — tables are only assigned for dinner) and got to see all the goings-on in port over coffee and eggs Benedict and whole wheat toast.
3) COVID has changed debarkation for the better. I remember organized chaos in New York back in 2019, and having to gather in the theatre or the ballroom back in 2010 and 2012, at the crack of dawn. Now we were assigned a debarkation time and were instructed to proceed to the gangway directly from our cabin. Much more efficient! After we retrieved our luggage, I was even more surprised that there was no Customs inspection (so we could leave the building immediately), and that there was no line for taxis (so we could leave the port immediately). Whoosh! Adios, Queen Elizabeth! You were more than a delight this week, and I hope to make your acquaintance again.
4) Back to the Hotel AC Som, where I was touched to find out they’d saved “our old room” from our pre-cruise stay, which was very sweet.
4a) I must say, the staff at this hotel have been 110% wonderful at every turn. Not centrally located, but I’d return.
5) After settling in, Carl and I set out to explore the Gothic Quarter at his request. The two landmarks I knew — the Picasso Museum and the Museum of Chocolate — were both closed, alas. Mondays! But I was able to tour the Church of Santa Maria del Mar; Carl waited for me patiently, but I didn’t keep him long.
5a) The church is beautiful, very high-ceilinged and mysterious, with some superb stained glass that doesn’t photograph well.
6) With the day pressing on, we relaxed over a pizza lunch at an al fresco café in a small plaza behind the church, enjoying pizza that had been warm once and observing the heavy cycle of tour groups coming through nearby. It was so interesting seeing what people thought appropriate to wear . . .
7) Near the Picasso Museum we found a shop Carl found perfect to pick up some gifts, which made me happy. On my first visit almost a month ago (!) I had remember the shops here being chicer. Second time around so many of them were just touristy stuff.
8) En route to the nearest metro, we discovered an elaborate triumphal arch from the 1880s made of red brick and including bats in its ornamentation.
9) After a nap — a) I love naps, as you know, and b) as usual, I hadn’t slept well before debarkation — I took Carl out to Vivo for a tapas dinner on our last night in Europe. I had enjoyed Vivo so much earlier in my Barcelona week! And this dinner was exceptionally good: ham and chicken croquettes, beef cheek canneloni, patatas bravas, and then — lobster paella. I had wanted some good paella on this trip, but everywhere I’ve been they only make it for two! This paella turned out superbly, and Carl being a Maine boy was quite happy with a lobster version.
10) We had gelato at a very swish gelateria across from Vivo afterward; I almost thought we were in 2001: A Space Odyssey.
Can you believe this hallway to the gelateria kitchen?! Staff only, of course, but wow, what a presentation!
11) It turns out Carl is also very fond of Marriott hotel breakfast buffets, and after a good breakfast, we easily piled into a cab to get him to the airport early for his flight. Easily, except . . . for a wardrobe malfunction. As I plopped into my seat, I felt and heard every stitch of the seat of my seersucker shorts give way; I screamed in my heart. Thank goodness my shirttail covered the damage when getting out!
12) Carl’s check-in turned out to be super-swift — how fortunate that he and I are both programmed to be early! — and I bid him farewell at the entrance to security. We will reunite in Boston at the end of September.
13) For me the rest of the day was about repacking and consolidating my luggage, sleep, and then returning to the part of Barcelona where I felt most comfortable, the Passeig de Gracia. And tapas dinner at Tapas 24 with Edwina Mountbatten and a momentarily vexing nosebleed.
14) Walking up the Passeig de Gracia again after dinner, I was struck again by Barcelona’s unique style, so heavily influenced by Gaudí and Art Nouveau (the good parts) and also Franco (the big apartment blocks). It’s been an incredible city to visit, but I’ll feel more comfortable returning when I know some of the language, and travel with someone who knows more about the city than I do.
An extraordinary apartment building on the Passeig de Gracia.