1) I arrived last Thursday afternoon for my third week in Provincetown this summer. What a change from July Fourth! That week was like the Before Times: very little masking or social distancing, dining out in restaurants, overall a freedom from fear. Since Miss Delta raised her head, it’s been like a return to 2020. This visit I haven’t been down Comical Street once since I arrived, and I have only dined al fresco a few times.
Only traveling al fresco, too, when possible.
2) Mistralino is truly the secret garden of P’town this summer. A restaurant off Bradford with a charming small brick terrace (some of you may remember it as the old Ten Tables), I went there Friday evening for a lateish dinner with the Other Housemate. For me, a rye manhattan, arancini, and chicken parm. We talked about insects (we had to get the waiter to relight some citronella candles), gardening, herb gardening (I was surprised he had an interest in that, and was able to recommend Beston’s Herbs and the Earth), COVID (of course), and The Boys in the Band.
A beautiful little spot for socially distanced cocktails.
3) This trip has included some really nice encounters with friends rarely seen:
Early on, a rarely seen friend and his new-to-me husband and their new-to-be little girl, absolutely adorable.
Sunday, two friends who moved to Palm Springs during the pandemic dropped by for drinks on the terrace, which was lovely.
And today, Tuesday, I met two friends from Boston here on vacation for a ramble through the small Winthrop Court Cemetery, a common interest.
4) Friday, Sunday, and Monday were my beach days, and very grateful for them I was, too — especially after how gray and damp everything was over July Fourth. I’d get into my rags and tatters, fill up the thermos with ice and water, and trudge off to Herring Cove with a stop at Gale Force for necessities. It’s pleasant to think of Herring Cove not being crowded at all, but that’s all it would be, a pleasant thought. Each day the area in front of the dunes would be consistently paved by 1:30 PM. Too close for comfort for me! So Monday, when I arrived after 2, I just trudged even further to the area in front of the roped-off bird nesting area, with no one around me for at least 30 feet, and that was wonderful.
Every rock an ouchie.
4a) The best, most beautiful part of these beach visits was simply floating in the water and feeling its chill in my ears and the back of my neck.
5) The Other Housemate ended up leaving Sunday afternoon, which created an opportunity for one of my Best Friends (with whom I’m splitting a half share) to pop up for a couple nights. This included dining in on Sunday night, and the viewing of the Halston documentary, during which I’m embarrassed to say I fell asleep for about ten minutes. In my defense, it was after 11 PM by then.
6) And now I’m preparing to return to town tomorrow, to pick up the threads of credit card fraud resolutions, Konmari, preparing for my talk for the Gibson House on August 17, and praying that COVID will spare the people I love. When I arrived on Thursday, I felt like a stressed mess. But these last few days of trudging back and forth to the beach, quiet dinners, good conversations, and some writing has helped restore my balance. A lot.
